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~ A Cut Above ~

Course Advanced Coastal Cruising; DELMARVA Circumnavigation
Date October 1-9, 2021
Vessel S/V NAVIGATOR, IP40
Students: Hugh Calkins, Jamey Kabisch, Bill Marshall, Mark Meredith, 
Mate Captain Jerry Nigro
Captain Captain Tom Tursi

Circumnavigating the Delaware-Maryland-Virginia (DMVA) peninsula is always an exciting and interesting advanced coastal cruse because of the variety of waters and weather conditions encountered. Being a hundred miles or so north of the infamous Gulf Stream and Cape Hatteras adds a degree of uncertainty to the expected weather conditions, and this uncertainty encourages meticulous preparations of the boat, crew, navigation, weather analysis, training and operational procedures. We will be sailing NAVIGATOR, our well-found Island Packet 40 foot cutter rigged blue water boat with many ocean miles under her keel. 

Crew included four experienced student crewmembers Jamey Kabisch, Mark Meredith, Hugh Calkins and Bill Marshall, plus First Mate Captain Jerry Nigro and Skipper Captain Tom Tursi, both of whom are experienced, long-distance ocean sailors with multiple trans-ocean passages to their credit. This cruise offers certification for the American Sailing Association's ASA108 Advanced Coastal Cruising standards for which three of our student crewmembers planned to complete. 

Mark trying on PFD vest... Photo Credit: Jamey Kabisch

Three weeks prior to this cruise, we held an online crew meeting to discuss plans for the cruise, pre-arrival navigation assignments for the student-crew, and personal preparations for the student crew. 

The cruise distance around the DMVA peninsula is about 450 miles of which half is in the Atlantic Coastal waters and the generally nasty Delaware Bay; the other half is in the Chesapeake Bay most of which we plan to transit at night. The entire cruise, including crew preparations and training, usually takes seven or eight days and includes port calls at Swan Creek near Rock Hall, the C&D Canal and Cape Charles Town in the southern Chesapeake; usually we also stop at Annapolis but bypassed it for this cruise since the Annapolis Boat Show is in progress and finding an available anchorage or mooring would be next to impossible. 

Thursday-Friday:
I boarded the boat in Rock Hall several days in advance of the cruise for early preparations, boat inspections and provisioning, and Jerry arrived on Thursday, September 30 to complete his inspections. The student-crew arrived in mid-afternoon of Friday, October 1 to stow their personal gear. We conducted below deck inspections that afternoon per the Training Plan book, and all went to dinner ashore to get to know each other before the cruise. Three of the four student crewmembers elected to sleep ashore in hotels during the next two days of pre-departure training 

Saturday:
By 0800 on Saturday, all crewmembers were aboard and ready to get going with the pre-departure training. Using the Training Plan book as a guide, we inspected all deck gear including the cockpit lockers, MOB gear, engine controls and electronic displays, plus reviewed the pre-departure inspection and checkoffs for the Navigator, Bosun, Engineer and Emergency Coordinator. Then came the standing and running rigging, mainsail and headsails. The mainsail on NAVIGATOR in a simple slab reefed sail with a hollow cut leech and no battens, and this simple construction reduces the chance of fouls during underway operations. But, raising, lowering and reefing this sail takes added effort and explicitly correct procedures to get the sail to set correctly, so we spent a large part of the morning practicing these operations to get them done right. After that we unfurled the 130% genoa, with emphasis on proper handling of the furling line to avoid fouls in the furling drum. 

 

Hugh at the helm... Photo Credit: Jerry Nigro

The staysail boom originally rigged on NAVIGATOR was long ago removed and the staysail was re-rigged as a jib with two sheets and two winches; this allowed the staysail to be better set flat to avoid flogging and leech flutter in heavy wind conditions. We practiced deploying and furling this sail also, which is fairly simple due to its small size and the way it's rigged. 

After lunch aboard, we deployed the whisker pole used to sail wing and wing off the wind with the genoa deployed to the windward side and mainsail to leeward side. This whisker pole on NAVIGATOR is an 18-foot, non-extendable 4-inch diameter aluminum pole stored vertically on track cars on the mast. It is heavy and dropping it accidentally could do serious damage to people and equipment, so proper handling is essential, especially in a rolling seaway. So, we practiced this deployment following the step-by-step procedures in the training Plan book. 

Now, by mid-afternoon on Saturday, we prepared the navigation plan for tomorrow's cruise to Swan Creek, about 15 miles distant from our marina. The basic process that we use for all of our cruises is to prepare the complete navigation plan using paper charts and the USCG Light List and Notices to Mariners, plus the NOAA Coast Pilot and local cruising guides, after which we enter waypoints into the electronic chart plotter. This process is described in detail in the Training Plan and is demonstrated in our YouTube video titled "Navigation Preparations for and Advanced Coastal Cruise" at https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uy6vs8FtH28&t=587s 

Sunday:
All crew and gear were onboard by 0800 on Sunday morning, and the crew proceeded with their pre-departure checklists, and by 0900 we were underway for the start of the cruise. Winds were calm so we stopped near Cackaway Island to calibrate the steering compass using the procedure detailed in the Training Plan and demonstrated in our YouTube video titled "Compass Calibration- The Easy Way" at https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=iIRLTyp8vhg&t=78s  The resulting Deviation curve is shown below: 

We then proceeded to the nearby Long Cove Marina to pumpout the waste tank, and from there to the Chester River to deploy the sails and practice tacking, gybing and reefing sails underway, then motored to Swan Creek in light winds where we took up a mooring ball at 1530 for the afternoon and overnight. We had an early dinner of pasta and meatballs then to the navigation preparations for tomorrow's run up the bay to the C&D Canal. All turned in early to their bunks, with two of the crew electing to sleep in the cockpit on the camping mattresses since the weather was dry and comfortably warm. 

Monday:
Crew up early; completed pre-departure checks; cast off mooring and underway by 0730; winds SW at 8 to 10 knots; morning clouds; visibility good; breakfast underway motoring up the bay to the C&D Canal. Student crew served one hour each on the helm in cycles with next person up serving as the Rover and on-watch Navigator. This afforded student crew the opportunity to practice underway navigation tasks including visual bearings, fixes and running fixes. Also to practice underway use of AIS, radar, weather forecasts, electronic and paper based course monitoring, depths, visual sighting of buoyage and other vessel traffic, collision avoidance, and communication practices between on watch crewmembers. It is essential for the crew to practice these skills now in daylight in the protected environment of the Chesapeake Bay as they will become vitally important during the overnight transits to come later in the cruise. 

Bill at the helm... Photo Credit Jerry Nigro

We arrived at the Summit North Marina in the C&D Canal at 1500 where we docked at the fuel dock and pumped out the waste tank and topped the diesel tank, then proceeded to our assigned slip on C-dock and went to dinner at the Grain restaurant followed by navigation preparations for the cruise legs down Delaware Bay and coastal Atlantic and into Cape Charles Town in the southern Chesapeake Bay. That night it poured rain so sleeping in the cockpit was not an attractive activity, so everyone made the best of six crewmembers sleeping below deck. 

Tuesday:
Crew was up at 0630, brushed teeth, checked the weather, completed pre-departure checks and departed slip at 0800. We went to a six-hour on, six-hour off watch schedule for the duration of the cruise to Cape Charles and up the bay as follows: 

  • Midnight to 0600 and Noon to 1800: Jamey and Bill
  • 0600 to Noon and 1800 to Midnight: Hugh and Mark
  • 0100 to 0700 and 1300 to 1900: Jerry
  • 0700 to 1300 and 1900 to 0100: Tom

Departed Summit North Marina at 0800 and ran into fog in the canal, which burned off before we got to the Delaware River. After the previous two days underway, the crew was now in the groove with handling the helm and sails, watchkeeping, underway navigation, collision avoidance, and onboard routines of meal preparations and sleeping arrangements. Breakfast was generally on your own for each crewmember, I usually made sandwiches for lunch for the crew, and Hugh and Mark usually cooked the evening meal which was served by 1700 to get it done and the galley cleaned up long before dark settled in. 

Jamey on watch. Photo Credit: Jerry Nigro

Skies were overcast with stratus clouds for the trip down the Delaware River and Bay with winds generally from the East or Northeast at 10 knots early in the day and up to 17 knots after noon; slight rain after noon. This allowed us to sail on a close reach, port tack, from the head of Delaware Bay to Cape Henlopen, rounding this cape at 1800 as evening pressed in and we entered the Atlantic. At this point we needed to stay between the shoreline and the outbound Traffic Separation Lane where large commercial ships are exiting the bay and making 18 to 20 knots heading out to sea. So we steered a course half way between the shoreline and the traffic lanes for the next 20 miles where the traffic lanes end and it becomes a free for all, which requires keen watch keeping and collision avoidance practices. Easterly winds continued at 15 to 18 knots overnight and into the next day, and we enjoyed a beautiful overnight sail on a close reach. 

Wednesday:
Continued sailing down the coast on port tack with winds NE at 12 to 18 knots and partly cloudy skies, but no threats of rain or squalls. Air temperatures were warm but comfortable. At 1600 as we approached the Chesapeake Bay entrance at Cape Charles a few miles distant, we had an early dinner to have it done and cleared before entering, and at 1800 we entered the Chesapeake Bay heading for sea buoy R"2N" Fl R 4s and turned NNW into the channel heading toward the Cape Charles bridge at Fisherman's Island. 

This channel is marked with four unlighted red buoys and one unlighted green buoy that we needed to visually identify in the fading light of twilight to ensure that we did not collide with them. From the red and green buoys at the end of this channel, we turned toward the bridge opening (actually two bridges) and the green pair of centerline lights hanging down below the bridge span. This pair of greens acts as a light range that lines up when we are located in the channel and passing through the two bridges. As we approached the bridges, we announced "Securite" over VHF channel 16 and identified ourselves as approaching the bridge opening to alert other vessels. 

Cape Charles Bridge

North of the bridge we are now in the dark after sunset, and there are two unlighted buoys that we needed to identify: one is the Red over Green channel junction mark, which we will leave to starboard; the second is Green Can #13 which we will leave to port. We determined the bearing and distance to each of these buoys from our current position and used this information to locate them in the dark with our spotlight. After this, it is a straight shot to Cape Charles Town channel entrance guarded by the bright white light of Old Plantation Flats beacon and the Green lighted buoy, G "1CC" Fl G 2.5 seconds where we make a right turn into the Cape Charles Town channel. 

This channel makes four turns needed to enter Cape Charles Harbor and is marked with two sets of range lights and a number of lighted beacons plus numerous background lights that distract your vision when trying to follow the channel. Entering this channel at night is an all-hands activity. We had Hugh as navigator stationed below at the paper charts and electronic plotter, Jamey on the helm, Mark and Bill stationed as lookouts in the cockpit, Jerry coordinating activities in the cockpit, and I was communicator between the navigator and cockpit. Everyone was well briefed as to the plan for transiting this channel, and all went well with no foulups, and we were parallel docked at a T-head in Cape Charles Marina by 2100. All hit their bunks pretty soon after arriving, well satisfied with the passage that we had just completed. 

Thursday-Friday:
Crew was up early, went for showers ashore, came back to the boat and started navigation preps for the overnight trip up the bay, while I cooked cheese omelets for breakfast for all. We plan to depart for the trip north around noon or so and will go to the fuel dock for diesel and pumpout on our way out f the marina. Weather today is overcast with 10 to 12 knot winds from the east, so we were able to sail on a beam reach, starboard tack. After dark, winds dropped below 7 knots, but remained from the east, so we furled the genoa and motor sailed with mainsail. 

We encountered several commercial ships, some northbound and some southbound, requiring close attention to our position relative to them to ensure safe passage. Your eyes can deceive you as to what you are looking at when a ship is approaching in the dark of night, so it is essential to regularly check the radar and AIS to have a clear idea of the location, course and speed of other vessels, and then look out and correlate visually what the radar and AIS are showing with what your eyes are seeing. Also, sometimes an AIS image on screen is lost in the crowd of other colors and markings, so the crew practiced the procedure of clicking down six levels on the chart plotter to find the near-hidden AIS list which shows all AIS contacts listed in order of distance from us; sometimes you find a contact not previously noticed on screen. In addition, it's essential to track radar contacts that are not AIS-identified because not all vessels are AIS-equipped, and for these we used the MARPA tracking feature on radar.

The USCG Notices to Mariners, previously discussed, advised that the Great Chesapeake Bay Schooner Race will depart southbound from Annapolis at Noon today with eighteen schooners from 35 to 157 feet headed to the Norfolk area. So we are expecting to encounter these vessels during the nighttime hours while we are headed north. And, sure enough, we did meet them. Some were well lighted; some were not. Some had AIS; some did not. Some were good radar targets; some were not. Overall, we visually spotted about half of this fleet spread over several hours, and made safe passes with all, but it was a little hair raising at times. 

Friday:
Dawn on Friday came bright and clear with a few high cirrus clouds, bright sunshine and little wind, which veered (clocked) to SE to S to W by noontime. Again, the USCG Notices to Mariners provided timely advice; this time that the Annapolis Boat Show was in progress and we knew that that meant we'd not be able to find a mooring there, or a tenable anchorage, so we decided to press on directly to our homeport. On the way, I received a text message that the waste pumpout station at Long Cove Marina was flooded out by the recent storm-induced high water, so we went directly to our slip at Lankford Bay Marina, docking there at about 1300. After settling in, three of the students sat for the ASA106 written exam, which completed by mid-afternoon. Thus ended our successful circumnavigation of the DMVA peninsula, with all crew disembarking and heading for heir homeports...

Captain Tom Tursi
S/V NAVIGATOR, IP40
Rock Hall, MD

 

PS- Mark Meredith sent the following note, which captures many of the moments during the cruise:

Hi All,
I think we all had particular moments that stick in our minds from our recent adventure together. I jotted down some of my own and thought I’d share with you. Below is what I came up with — in no particular order. 

·        Sailing for hours and hours on the open ocean with no land or other vessels in sight 

·        Full foul-weather gear on the night shift in the Atlantic

·        Like trying to sleep in a washing machine

·        "I will leave you on my starboard" - two horn blasts in the middle of the night

·        AIS and visual tracking of fishing vessels at night in the Atlantic

·        2 ounces of Yuengling

·        “Were you able to sleep?”   “……I’m not sure….."

·        Hugging the outside of the shipping lanes

·        Trying not to hit unlit buoys at night

·        Getting a visual from the companionway and realizing the dozen tankers showing red on the AIS were all at anchor

·        Two range markers clearly aligned at night at Cape Charles entrance

·        Fighter jets and racing schooners

·        Tom’s awesome sandwiches for lunch

·        Strapped in at the galley with the waist belt

·        Hammering through the nav prep as a team – course, waypoints, distances, TVMDC, light list numbers 

·        The rhythm of the six-hour shifts

·        Forgetting to check the odometer when handling off the helm

·        The coffee cup deviation test

·        Lack of sleep and sea sickness, and trying to stay focused

·        Shooting the breeze in the cockpit with Hugh and Jerry during our night shifts 

·        Nailing a two-bearing fix and running fix for the first time 

·        A beautiful sunset and a beautiful sunrise

·        Lightning bolt and thunderstorm while sleeping in the cockpit

·        Weaving through the C&D Canal with no other boat traffic

·        Proper steps for a smooth helm transition – “The boat is mine”

·        Heavy fog on the morning departure from North Summit Marina

·        20-knot winds and ocean rollers on the night shift on the Atlantic

·        The sound of the wind and the waves, and the ocean spray   

·        The joy of being under sail 

Take care,
Mark

 

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